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Parisian players add pressure
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As the title suggests, French designers are imputing extra effort this season to make trends more noticeable per say and differentiate themselves from mixed references and inspiration presented in the other fashion weeks.
What is this season’s trend thus far? Tribalism. Nicolas Ghesquiere showcased jackets reminiscent of Polo Ralph Lauren for Balenciaga this season. A bright color palette for fall was intriguing indeed, and the presentation did summon “folklore” as a motif. This collection is less Cristobal and more Nicolas.
Jean Paul Gaultier’s uncanny combination of reworked plaid and face knits topped off with millinery by Stephen Jones made for an eccentric show. Never have I seen plaid paralleled with fur in such harmonious unison. Only Gaultier can take a cheap looking material and mix it with an expensive hive. We do know fur is his true calling. A collection like this will require buyers to take a little extra time in the showrooms this season, but Gaultier isn’t the only designer expressing his shock factor.
Yesterday Victor and Rolf awed and frightened the crowd simultaneously; not because of the clothing, but rather the presentation- frail girls walking in wooden clogs and carrying a set of high powered lights. Aside from the balancing trick was nothing more than simple wearable clothes- as seen by other top editors. Good thing there wasn’t a high voltage collision.
Regarding Christian Dior, it was another continuation of the splendid couture show. For the last few seasons it appears John Galliano has ditched his innate knack for theatrics and took the more conservative, elegant route. Sometimes we do need a breath of fresh air, and Galliano’s collection did filter the oxygen.
Japanese designers on French soil took a different route. It was less about elegance and more about creativity in the form of black. This season Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe took on the midnight theme. Models walked with a strong face, but that wasn’t enough to deter fashionistas from seeing the heavy detailing, multiple layers, and polka dots worked in a harder way than the usual preppy Americana. As Yamamoto and Watanabe made their edgy productions, Comme des Garcons took us to the candy shop. Bunny ears, peter pan collars, and hip hugging hand molds were Rei’s seasonal staple. Words can not explain the creativity, thus a trip to style.com will tell all. Such bulbous shapes and funky colors thus made this a unique “fall and winter” collection. As French fashion week continues, hopefully we can realize definite trends.
